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Building Waterproof Roof Decks
Get better performance from your deck covering by using ‘best practices’ framing and flashing details
My company specializes in repairing and waterproofing failed balconies, stairs, and roof decks, so I see on a near-daily basis the results of water intrusion into wood framing, especially in mass-produced housing. The costs can be astronomical: For example, recently a simple $3,800 deck repair turned into a $120,000 project, thanks to dry-rot damage to the framing, shear walls, and decks.
That’s unfortunate because building a reliable, long-lasting waterproof deck over living space is relatively straightforward when the best practices and materials are used.
There are a number of ICC-ES–listed manufacturers of Class A walking deck systems (see Class A Fire-Resistant Walking and Roof Deck Systems, sidebar). We’ve installed most of them, and while installation details vary slightly from product to product, none of them will last over the long term if the deck covering isn’t applied over a sturdy substrate.
READ ALL OF MY ARRTICLE BY CLICKING HERE https://deckexpert.com/article-library/deck-framing/building-waterproof-decks-by-bill-leys/
Attaching Deck Ledgers
Preventing rot at the band joist is as important as using strong enough fasteners
Repairing Cantilevered Balconies
The right flashing details, reinforced framing, and durable waterproof decking give new life to old balconies
My company specializes in condominium maintenance and repairs. In California, homeowners have up to ten years to bring suit against the original builder for faulty workmanship. Condo associations are often awarded settlements for remedial projects that can run into the millions of dollars — work that is usually undertaken by companies much larger than mine. We’re most often hired by associations that have already passed the tenyear limit, which means that the work must be paid for out of a maintenance budget. Our most common job involves repairing water-damaged framing, especially in the cantilevered balconies that are so popular in multifamily buildings here. The jobs we tackle are awarded in quantities from 1 to 50 balconies at a time. Anatomy of a Balcony The typical condo balcony we encounter is framed with cantilevered joists that project about 6 feet from the face of the building, or from onefourth to one-third of their overall length. The remainder of the joist is buried inside, an integral component of the interior floor system. A fractured or delaminated balcony surface (typically plywood, covered by one of several possible waterproofing systems) is usually the first tip-off to greater problems; READ THE REST BY CLICKING HERE
Coastal Resources: Safe and Durable Coastal Decks
All deck builders should refer to the DCA6 — prescriptive guidelines for residential deck construction — and coastal builders should pay extra-close attention to the material choices and structural connections outlined in its pages
A casual inspection of just about any wooden boardwalk or ocean-side deck will provide ample evidence of what a harsh coastal environment can do. Heat, ultraviolet light, elevated moisture levels, and salt spray all take a toll. The apparent degradation of materials evidenced by splintering, splitting, and rusting call attention to one of the coastal contractors’ highest priorities: designing and building safe and durable decks. Fortunately, there is help at hand to guide deck builders toward code-conforming deck design and good construction practice.
The DCA6
The reference document for safe residential construction is the International Residential Code (IRC), which has been adopted with some modifications by most states and jurisdictions. While the 2006 IRC provides comprehensive prescriptive design guidance on the foundation and structural framing of the residence from the walls inward, the available guidance on the design of an attached deck, until recently, has been very limited. In recognition of this deficit of information, the American Forest & Paper Association (AF&PA) developed and published Design for Code Acceptance 6 (DCA6): Prescriptive Residential Deck Construction Guide, which is available on the Web at http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6.pdf. The document is 20 pages and is branded by the AF&PA, the International Code Council, and Fairfax County, Va. The reader’s attention is directed to the bottom of page 1, where the basis of the document is stated—IRC sections are bracketed when they form the basis of a section, while other sections are considered “good practice recommendations.”
While every section of DCA6 is important to deck safety, the purpose of this article is to give background on sections of the DCA6 that may be of special interest to the coastal deck contractor. All discussion is referenced to bracketed page numbers and sections of the DCA document.
Minimum Requirements: Decay Issues for Lumber Components
Building a safe deck starts with selecting appropriate materials. The DCA6 [item 2, page 2] provides builders with two options for real wood decking: naturally durable species, such as redwood or western cedars, or pressure-treated lumber. Both deserve careful study by the deck contractor who is focused on durability.
Essential reference. The Design for Code Acceptance 6: Prescriptive Residential Deck Construction Guide, provides practical guidance for designing and building safe, durable decks. Download and print the document atwww.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6.pdf
.Naturally durable species. While such woods as redwood and cedar are widely considered to be naturally durable species, only the “heartwood” of redwood, cedars, black locust, and black walnut is actually considered decay resistant by the IRC. The sapwood, the outside part of a log, does not qualify. According to the USDA Wood Handbook (1999), “Untreated sapwood of substantially all species has low resistance to decay and usually has a short service life under decay-producing conditions.” Only the average heartwood of species is rated in Table 3-10 of the Wood Handbook. Corner sapwood is permitted if 90% or more of the width of each side on which it occurs is heartwood.
Given these restrictions, it is unlikely that the typical decking lumber available will consistently meet the IRC’s definition of “naturally durable wood.” To ensure deck durability, the deck contractor should consider special-ordering “all heartwood” in conformance with model code definition of naturally durable wood.
Deck disaster? This is not an atypical condition of the materials and connections for decks built near the ocean. Heat, ultraviolet light, elevated moisture levels, and salt spray exact a stiff toll on wood decks in relatively short periods. A condition like this should raise safety concerns for both the deck builder and the general contractor.
Pressure-treated lumber. Pressure-treated lumber works well for both the substructure and the decking. However, contractors should pay close attention to the retention level used for lumber on all parts of the deck.
Citing the IRC, the DCA6 is clear: “All lumber in contact with the ground shall be rated as ‘ground-contact.’ ” The difference in retention levels between “ground contact” material and “above ground” material is significant, as shown in the table below.
This table gives the American Wood-Preserver’s Association (AWPA) required minimum retention levels for dimension lumber. Treatment levels for both the “old” CCA and the new preservative chemicals are provided. Note that required retentions for the “above ground” treatment are substantially less than those required for “ground contact” materials.
To ensure the right treatment level, deck contractors must carefully examine the treatment tags on the lumber they purchase, making sure that “ground contact” material is being ordered and delivered when required. Once material with the proper retention level is purchased for the job, I recommend that contractors keep a sample of the lumber treatment tags, along with a copy of the PT lumber invoice, as part of the job file. This will help to substantiate the contractor’s due diligence should a construction defect complaint related to the deck ever arise.
Even in “above ground” applications, however, there is a strong argument for using materials suited for ground contact. At this time, the adequacy of the new PT chemicals at above-ground treatment levels is largely unknown. Since about 1985, all the PT lumber in our area was CCA-treated to the ground-contact level. As such, deck contractors have vast experience using the ground-contact southern pine in deck applications. After the transition to the new chemicals, the above-ground material came to be readily available for deck construction in the Virginia area and along the eastern seaboard. However, the durability of the new preservatives and lower treatment levels in deck applications is unknown at this time. Faced with uncertainty on this subject, I would strongly recommend that contractors consider returning to the practice of using “ground contact” lumber for all above-ground deck parts.
The lateral load connection required by section R502.2.2 of the 2007 IRC requires hold-down tension devices like those shown here. This type of connector is required in at least two locations per deck, and each device must be designed for an allowable stress capacity of at least 1,500 pounds.
Solid-sawn deck posts (timbers) embedded in the ground may even require a preservative treatment level that is above the “ground contact” treatment level typically used for 2-inch dimension lumber. (For additional information on the recommended treatment for timbers in the ground, please visitwww.southernpine.com/pdf/tpsp_table4.pdf
and refer to category “Lumber/Timbers,” subcategory “Ground Contact or Fresh Water.” Structural deck posts covered here are in the realm of “Critical Structural Components.”) Also keep in mind that regardless of the PT wood materials selected, decks should be inspected annually for evidence of decay and unsafe conditions.
Based on Table 5 of the DCA6, the table above shows the required fastener spacing for southern yellow pine, Douglas-fir larch, or hem-fir deck ledgers that will be secured to a 2-inch nominal spruce-pine-fir band joist or engineered-wood rim board. While the spacing values for 1/2-inch lag screws and bolts are easy to select from this table, careful study of footnotes 1 to 9 is crucial before using the data. Noncompliance with any of the footnote provisions could produce a disastrous in-service result. For example, footnote 3 directly relates to the photo (above), which shows the result of overlooking the Z-flashing on a ledger. Corrosion protection of metal parts. Item 4 of the Minimum Requirements in the DCA6 covers the corrosion resistance of fasteners and metal hardware. Coastal contractors should skip right to the fourth bullet point, which trumps the previous three bullets wherever the job site is located near the ocean: Fasteners and connectors exposed to, and located within 300 feet of, a saltwater shoreline shall be stainless steel grade 304 or 316.
“Fasteners” include all nails, screws, lag screws, and bolts. “Connectors” are typically joist hangers and other framing hardware that is fabricated from rolled steel. In the interest of deck safety and increased durability, the provision should be considered by the contractor and owner for decks greater than 300 feet from a saltwater shoreline.
Assumed design loads. DCA6 is based on an assumed live load of 40 psf and the 10 psf dead load.
The 40 psf live load (LL) anticipates occupants only with typical deck furniture such as lightweight tables and chairs. It does not anticipate heavy loads such as large planters, portable pools, the water in a hot tub, or any other load beyond the weight of occupants.
Dead load (DL) is defined as the self weight of the structure and the weight of fixed objects. The use of a 10 psf DL anticipates wood framing with wood or plastic decking. It does not include the dead weight of a hot tub or any other permanently attached objects.
For coastal contractors, especially, it should be noted that the DCA6 does not address lateral loads on decks produced by wind or seismic events. For this, builders should turn first to the 2007 IRC, which does address the issues of lateral loads on decks as shown in the illustration on page 3. These new deck provisions to the 2007 IRC can be viewed atwww.iccsafe.org/cs/codes/2007-08cycle/2007Supplement/IRC07S.pdf
.As a matter of good construction practice, the deck contractor should formally communicate these load assumptions to the homeowner by reviewing the DCA6 Minimum Requirements [items 5 and 6, page 2]. If the customer’s expectations call for loading conditions that go beyond occupant loading, you will need to get a design professional involved.
Joists and Beams
Maximum joist spans provided in the DCA6 [page 3] are based on No. 2 grade lumber and wet-service conditions. The tabulated spans are less than common residential floor spans because the assumed wet-service conditions reduce the strength properties of the lumber.
All carrying beams (multiple deck girders) must bear fully on supporting posts, while the joists above should fully bear on the beams. Such “wood-to-wood” bearing provides the most efficient connection possible between wood framing members. Bolting the beams to the sides of the post is not an efficient connection. In the case of a 2x beam bolted to a 6×6 post, for example, the force is applied to the beam members perpendicular-to-grain and the bolt forces are applied parallel-to-grain in the post. In this situation, the capacity of a typical 1/2-inch bolt in the perpendicular-to-grain loading is relatively low under wet-service conditions. Splitting is also likely to occur when two (or more) bolts are aligned vertically in the beam, because the shrinkage rates between the beam members and the post are dramatically different (about 40:1).
Premature decline. On a beachfront home in Virginia, no Z-type flashing was installed over the ledger-to-house connection, which led to extensive decay.
Ledger Attachment and Flashing
Based on deck collapses and injuries reported in media sources, the connection of the deck ledger to the house band joist is the most critical structural element of a deck. But the integrity of the connection is based on the assumption that the house band and deck ledger has no decay [DCA6 Table 5, page 12]. Therefore, flashing the connection is easily as important as the connection design (fastener size and spacing).
Ledger fastening. The fastener spacings from DCA6 Table 5 are based on tests of simulated deck-ledger to band-joist connections performed at Virginia Tech and Washington State University that form the basis of an IRC code proposal. The design data (except for engineered wood product [EWP] rim boards) with footnotes were adopted into the 2007 IRC. Since the publication of the ledger fastener table in the 2007 IRC, AF&PA has added EWP rim boards to the DCA6 Table 5 based on tests at APA.
Ledger flashing. The critical role of effective ledger flashing cannot be overemphasized. The photo at the top of page 5 underscores the result from overlooking the Z-flashing on a beachfront home. If for any reason the wall sheathing and house band joist are exposed to water, decay will follow because the typical ledger connection is “water trapping,” and significant decay is the likely outcome.
Best practice calls for not only including the Z-flashing recommended by DCA6 but also providing self-adhesive flashing against the house. This type of membrane is strongly recommended in coastal conditions to help protect against water infiltration resulting from wind-driven rain.
Ledger connection to cantilevers. Without a connection detail by a professional engineer, a deck ledger should never be supported off the end of a cantilevered floor [DCA6 Figure 18] because the load path is not complete. It is extremely difficult to transfer the vertical load from the deck ledger to the floor joist of the house using fasteners, because the rim joist/house band is bearing on “air” instead of a plate with a high wood-to-wood bearing capacity. This situation is depicted in the photo below. It is extremely dangerous and likely to collapse under relatively low deck loads (possibly dead load only).
Deadly rail. The photo above shows an example of a grossly deficient guardrail system that produced a fatality and another injured party. In this case, a young man died after falling through the guardrail with posts that were nailed only to joists on the end of the deck. Note the notched 4×4 posts — a detail that is not permitted in the DCA6.
Guard Requirements
In the vernacular of DCA6 [pages 15-16, 18-19], a deck’s “guard” is the guardrails or handrails surrounding the deck. All deck surfaces greater than 30 inches above grade are required to have a guard. Details for a proper guard can be found in DCA6 Figure 24. At stake here is the protection of the occupants against severe injuries and fatalities (see photo). Falls through decks guards are generally grave, and among problems with decks, only deck ledger failures are reported more frequently in the media.
DCA6 Figure 26 shows the rail post construction needed to meet the intent of the IRC code (shown in the illustration “Guard Post to Rim Joist Detail”, below). By code, the top of the rail must safely resist a 200-lb. outward force. “Safely” in this case means that a safety factor is applied to a test of a detail to prove that it can work in the field, because tests rely on virgin material and perfect fabrication that doesn’t always exist on site. In an effort to determine what constitutes a safe rail post connection to the end of deck joists, we tested numerous details at Virginia Tech. All lagged and through-bolted connections failed to meet the 500-lb. test load, despite numerous attempts to reinforce the connection with blocking. Only the connection that relied on a metal hold-down anchor, such as the Simpson HD2AHDG (www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/HDA-HD.asp) or DeckLok (www.mtdecklok.com/railpost.htm), passed the test (as illustrated in “Guard Post to Rim Joist Detail”, below).
Hold-downs required. To meet code, guard posts for deck guards that run perpendicular to the deck joists must be attached to the rim joist as shown at right. This connection relies on hold-down anchors, which in a saltwater environment should be made from stainless steel.
As mentioned previously, stainless steel connectors and fasteners are recommended in DCA6 for saltwater shoreline exposure. DeckLok is one source for 304 and 316 stainless steel hold-down anchors that resisted the 500-lb. load used in the Virginia Tech guard post tests.
Wrong! Deck joists (framed with PT framing lumber) have been hung from a ledger that is lagged into the rim board of a cantilevered I-joist system. Even if the lag screws were to be positioned to penetrate the I-joist flanges, the connection would be dangerously weak. It is likely to collapse under very low loads, possibly the dead load of just the deck structure itself. DCA6 strictly prohibits the connection of a deck to a cantilevered overhang.
Landmark Step
The publication of DCA6 by the AF&PA is a landmark step in advancing the cause of safe decks in order to prevent injuries and fatalities from deck collapses. While I have only commented on a few sections with respect to deck safety and durability, the entire DCA6 is important and deserves careful study and consideration by the professional deck contractor. For decks applications and conditions that fall outside the scope of DCA6, the contractor should seek professional design input and evaluation by the local jurisdiction through the permitting and inspection program.
Frank Woeste, Ph.D., P.E., is Professor Emeritus at Virginia Tech University, Blacksburg. All photos by the author. A list of his publications can be viewed atwww.vtwood.forprod.vt.edu/resumes/woeste1101.pdf
Better Deck Piers
Part 1: Base the footing design and spacing on the deck’s size, expected loads, and local soil conditions
Better Deck Piers
Part 2: Best practices for forming and pouring concrete deck footings and piers
Read The Rest By Clicking Here http://www.deckmagazine.com/structure/not-a-replacement-for-lateral-load-anchors_o.aspx?dfpzone=design.footings
Lateral Bracing Alternatives
Anchoring decks to the foundation rather than to the interior framing simplifies a finicky detail
The 2009 IRC, which is the building code in my area, requires that a deck connected to and supported by its primary structure be “designed for vertical and lateral loads as applicable” (2009 IRC, R502.2.2).
The IRC’s vertical load requirement is clear: 50 pounds (40 live plus 10 dead) per square foot. Using a deck’s dimensions, you can easily calculate its vertical load on the connection between the deck ledger and the house band, and then refer to the code to find connection details and attachment configurations.
However, the IRC’s lateral load provision—intended to prevent a deck from being pulled away from its supporting structure—is anything but clear, as most deck builders know.
Credit: International Code Council
Instead of quantifying general lateral load requirements, the code offers a READ THE REST HERE http://www.deckmagazine.com/framing/lateral-bracing-alternatives_o.aspx
- QUESTION & ANSWER
Lateral Bracing for a Second- Story Deck
By Jim Finlay
Q: I need to replace a second-floor deck and would like to avoid opening the finished ceiling inside the house to install lateral-load anchors. In Jim Finlay’s article about lateral bracing (see “Lateral Bracing Alternatives,” Jan/Feb 2014), the author describes different methods for anchoring a deck to a foundation, but none of them are an option on a second-floor deck. Do you have any suggestions that would allow me to avoid installing threaded rod into the house on each end of the deck?
A: Jim Finlay, owner of Archadeck of Suburban Boston, in Burlington, Mass., responds: At a second floor you have no foundation, but you do have the house frame. Read the Rest by Clicking Here. http://www.deckmagazine.com/engineering/lateral-bracing-for-a-second-story-deck_o.aspx?dfpzone=design.footings
- QUESTION & ANSWER
Fast Joist- Hanger Installation
By Mike Guertin
Q: What is the best way to install joist hangers?
A: Mike Guertin, a custom-home builder in East Greenwich, R.I., and a regular presenter at Deck Expo, responds: Most decks require dozens of joist hangers, so the faster and more accurately I can install them, the more time and money I can save. I’ve found that preinstalling the hangers on the ledger and rim joist allows me to simply drop each joist in place without having to struggle to hold it in position while attempting to nail it off. Another advantage of this approach is that the joists can be seated hard in their hangers; otherwise, if the hangers are installed after the joists are tacked in place, often there is a gap at the bottom, or the hanger ends up cocked to one side or the other.
Credit: Chuck Lockhart
READ THE REST OF MIKE’s ANSWER HERE http://www.deckmagazine.com/locksets-and-hardware/fast-joist-hanger-installation_o.aspx?dfpzone=design
- QUESTION & ANSWER
How Neat Do Joist Hangers Need to Be?
By David Finkenbinder
Q: I subbed out a deck frame and wasn’t too thrilled with the sloppy way the crew installed the joist hangers. There are gaps—some almost 1/4 inch—between the seats on some hangers and the bottom of the joists. All the joists are flush with the top of the ledger, but I’m afraid the joists will sink down to the hanger-seat level eventually and the decking will telegraph the resulting wave. The framer offered to install shims to fill the gaps between the hanger seats and joist bottoms, but I’m wondering if there may be a problem doing so? Or should I have him pull the hangers off and install them properly?
A: David Finkenbinder, a branch engineer with Simpson Strong-Tie, responds: The bulk of a hanger’s download capacity is by way of the joist bearing on the seat of the hanger, with that force then being transferred through the steel and into the header via the hanger fasteners installed into the header face. Without full bearing, the hanger joist fasteners would still transfer some download to the header, but there would be a significant reduction in capacity from our published download values. We do not have recommendations for shimming because it’s difficult to do properly. Most materials on a jobsite that might be used for shims—such as cedar shingles or scrap lumber or decking ripped to size—have insufficient strength.
Another consideration would be the code requirements for bearing of joists and beams. READ THE REST OF DAVID’s ANSWER BY CLICKING HERE http://www.deckmagazine.com/codes-and-standards/how-neat-do-joist-hangers-need-to-be_o.aspx?dfpzone=design
Advice on Fighting Rot and Corrosion
By Dave Barrowcliffe
The failure of the long-term structural adequacy of a deck can be attributed to bad workmanship, design, unsuitable materials, deterioration, and lack of proper maintenance of the structure. These issues are not all addressed in the IRC and much is left to the knowledge and expertise of the builder.
As a builder well past the age of retirement who has seen and repaired structural degradation in buildings and decks over many years, I think that all timber that is subject to moisture and exposure to the elements should be further protected with a paint coating, whether it has been preservative-treated or not. READ ALL OF DAVE’s ADVICE BY CLICKING HERE http://www.deckmagazine.com/finishes-and-surfaces/extra-steps-needed-to-prevent-rot-and-corrosion_o.aspx?dfpzone=design
- PRODUCTS
Structural Plastic Columns
Pre-primed and ready for paint or stain
Though designed to look like wood, Fypon’s 9-foot-tall steel-reinforced polyurethane columns aren’t susceptible to insect or moisture damage, like wood can be.
Woodgrain Structural Columns have molded caps, but the bases are loose so the columns can be cut to the desired height on the jobsite. Fypon says the steel reinforcement—which provides each column a load-bearing capacity of 12,000 pounds—should be cut using either a hacksaw or a reciprocating saw.
Available in Read the Rest By Clicking Here http://www.deckmagazine.com/options-and-upgrades/fypon-woodgrain-structural-columns_o.aspx?dfpzone=design.footings
Connecting a Deck to a SIPs House
By Paul Malko
Q: I’m building a house using structural insulated panels (SIPs), and plans call for a porch in front and a deck in back. What’s the best way to attach them to the house?
A: Paul Malko, technical director at Foard Panel and a speaker at JLC Live, responds: Part of the answer depends on the rim detail. If the SIPs land on top of a conventionally framed deck, you can use 1?1/8-inch-thick structural rim boards and attach the deck ledger as prescribed by the code. If a SIP rim is used, the panel by itself would not be strong enough for attaching a deck or porch ledger to. The foam doesn’t have enough compressive strength to be through-bolted.
That said, we have two ways of beefing up the outer skin of a SIP or SIP rim. READ THE REST OF PAUL’s ANSWER BY CLICKING HERE http://www.deckmagazine.com/framing/connecting-a-deck-to-a-sips-house_o.aspx?dfpzone=design
Treated Wood Deck Framing Rules Get Tougher
A new treated wood industry standard redefines acceptable uses for “Above Ground” rated lumber.
Rules for Drilling and Notching Deck Framing
By Glenn Mathewson
When you’re building a deck, it’s sometimes necessary to drill holes or cut notches in the framing for routing electrical cables or for installing gas piping. Because holes and notches can significantly weaken wood structural members, the IRC provides guidelines for making these onsite modifications, at least for sawn joists (see R502.8, 2012 IRC).
The rules aren’t quite so clear-cut when you need to modify a beam or a post, however. If you happen to be working with an engineered product, such as a treated glulam, you often can refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for notching or drilling guidance. In other cases, a basic understanding of the forces that act on horizontal and vertical framing members and of how wood framing resists these forces may allow you to safely make modifications using your common sense, or at least help you recognize when you should seek the judgment of a licensed engineer.
Avoid notches in the middle third of single-span joists, where bending forces are greatest. When making calculations, use actual rather than nominal dimensions. READ THE REST BY CLICKING HERE http://www.deckmagazine.com/engineering/rules-for-drilling-and-notching-deck-framing_o.aspx?dfpzone=design.footings
Notching Guidelines
By Buddy Showalter
Most deck builders probably follow the IRC’s familiar notching and drilling guidelines—no notches in the middle third of a joist and no holes closer than 2 inches from the top or bottom edge of a joist, for example (see 2012 IRC, Figure R502.8). But what most deck builders don’t realize is that those prescriptive guidelines are intended for framing in dry locations only. The IRC is silent on this topic in the deck section, and the Prescriptive Residential Wood Deck Construction Guide, DCA 6, only addresses the notching of guard posts.
For any outdoor, uncovered application such as a deck, almost all lumber and connection design values, which are based on the National Design Specification (NDS) for Wood Construction, are subject to wet-service adjustments (penalties). Prescriptive documents such as DCA 6 already account for those wet-service adjustments in their span tables and background calculations for fasteners, but not so for notches and holes. Joists and beams that are subject to repeated wetting and drying should not be modified unless it is part of an engineered design.
John “Buddy” Showalter
American Wood Council
Leesburg, Va.
- Q&A
Mid-Stair Landings
Credit: American Wood Council
As one deck builder recently told me, installing the bottom newel posts on a set of porch or deck stairs is a real PITA. To meet code, these posts have to be able to withstand 200-lb. lateral loads. And in some areas, the base of the stairs – typically a post/stringer assembly – has to be supported by footings that bear on undisturbed ground that is either 12 inches below grade or below the frostline (whichever is deeper) … in other words, just like any other deck footings. For some inspectors, a simple poured concrete slab landing just won’t cut it (Glenn Mathewson weighs in on the pros and cons of floating vs. fixed landings here).If your inspector requires stair footings, you can follow the detail shown in Figure 34 in the American Wood Council’s DCA6-12 (see illustration). READ THE REST OF ANDREW’S ARTICLE BY CLICKING HERE http://www.deckmagazine.com/staircases/solving-the-stair-post-connection-dilemma_o.aspx?dfpzone=design
DeckExpert.com – Your Source For Waterproof Deck Information & SB 326 SB 721 Balcony Inspections 