I subscribe to Milwaukee’s Red Tool Store and get frequent updates on sales and new tools. One new tool from them is their combination concrete screed and level. They have concrete screed/level combo’s in 24″, 48″ and 72″ lengths. The levels range in price from $49.00 to $149 at Red Tool Store https://www.redtoolstore.com/collections/layout-tools
Does anyone doing concrete deck coatings out there have one or two in their tool box? Drop us a line and let us know how you like yours.
We’ve noticed of late that more than a few pedestrian traffic coating Manufacturer’s have moved their listings out of ICC-ES over to IAMPO’s Uniform Evaluation Service at https://www.iapmoes.org/.
ICC-ES has been the major evaluation service in the Building Industry for many years and is recognized worldwide. However, their long hold on the industry as the evaluation service that manufacturer’s go to is being challenged by IAMPO. We spoke with several manufacturer’s who told us that they were saving substantial sums of money on yearly fees for their products listings by switching to IAMPO.
IAMPO meets ANSI standards as an evaluation service, meeting established criteria that gives consumers, building officials and contractors confidence that the products being used are evaluated and approved for the use (s) listed in the report.
Currently under Division 7 listings for pedestrian traffic coatings we see Hill Brothers Chemical Company with their Desert Crete system, Kemper America with their urethane pedestrian traffic coating, Mer-Ko by Westcoat with the Shurdeck system and Multicoat Corporation.
One other manufacturer told us they were seriously considering moving over to IAMPO’s Evaluation service as well, citing yearly fees of $40,000 to maintain their ICC-ES listings. Well, the market loves competition so we will see how ICC-ES responds; losing fees from defecting companies hurts their bottom line.
Manufacturer’s, any comments on what your plans are? Are you considering switching to IAMPO? Let us know.
“Leys makes a good argument that even the other groups identified in the draft bill—general contractors, architects, and engineers—aren’t qualified to perform these inspections, despite their skills and training.”
Andrew Wormer Editor Professional Deck Builder Magazine
If California’s Senate Bill 721 is adopted without modification by that state’s legislature, periodic inspections of enclosed balconies and similar structures on multi-family buildings that are higher than 6 feet above the ground would be required statewide. This is a common-sense measure, especially in light of the Berkeley balcony collapse in 2015 that killed six students. But as Bill Leys points out in an interesting post on PDB’s LinkedIn group, one of the groups that would be authorized under the law to perform these inspections, make repair-or-replace recommendations, and certify that repairs have been properly completed are structural pest control licensees.
Here at DeckExpert.com, I often hear someone say “the flashing leaked and the deck failed”. I always ask, how did the flashing leak? In my opinion, if the deck waterproofing system is installed in such a manner that the entire piece of flashing, the horizontal piece nailed to the deck and the vertical leg that goes up the wall is completely embedded in waterproofing, the flashing basically cannot leak. Drip edges covering the building materials below won’t leak unless the coating has lost it’s bond with the metal. I often find that happens when gutters are nailed through the drop of the drip flashing and the metal is deflected.
The misnomer in my opinion in the industry is to think of flashing as “waterproofing”. It is not primarily waterproofing. What the flashing is for is to provide a termination point for the deck waterproofing system to end to. Metal flashing is simply what we use to do that.
Now let me clear, the flashing’s still must be integrated properly into/with contiguous weather resistant barriers that are being installed by other trades-where building paper comes down and over the flashing for the deck. Sequencing is essential when it comes to installing weather barriers and typically the low slope roof and deck areas are weathered in first.
Edge/drip flashings still must be installed in a manner that they are placed over building materials below them so water runs over, away and off.
Flashing materials are commonly galvanized/bonderized metals, copper and stainless steel. When using any of these, proper preparation of the metal is essential prior to terminating the coating to it. Bright shiny galvanized I don’t recommend at all as it’s very difficult to clean and prep properly in the field for our work’s requirements. I recommend “bonderized” metal flashing instead. It’s basically clean so it usually just needs to be wiped down with a damp rag to remove dust and contaminants. Copper and stainless steel both require being sanded heavily to “etch” the metal. I use a 4″ grinder with the sanding flappers in a 50-36 grit paper to cut into the metal. I then prime the metal with a liquid based mix of the base coat so it’s loose with polymer and I brush it out onto the flashings. I then use fiberglass and resin to finish waterproofing the vertical legs of the wall to deck. See picture below for an example. Completely encasing the L flashing makes sense to me, it eliminates the possibility of water sitting at the wall and finding metal to attack. I’m also seeing this detail in Pli-Dek and Duradeck’s details, and I hope to see other manufacturer’s follow suit if they haven’t already.
The Deck Expert answers readers questions for only $25.00 Recently one reader asked us this question about his tiled deck.
“I saw your site on the web.
I have a tiled exterior deck. I have discovered it was not hot mopped before laying tile.
Obviously, it leaks.
I have been advised to use sealants but they don’t waterproof.
Is there any product that will waterproof the tile without removing the tile, hot mopping and retiling?”
Jay Q Los Angeles
Sadly there isn’t any sealer that will waterproof the tile. Sealers will help reduce moisture absorbed into the tile and down through the mortar bed, but will never succeed at actually waterproofing it.
A proper waterproofing system for a tiled deck is installed prior to the tile and mud bed being set. A pre-sloped substrate is waterproofed with a membrane suitable for tiling over, then a drain board is set on the waterproofing to allow water that does get through tile/grout/expansion joints to evacuate to a drain or an edge.
Hot mop waterproofing is pretty much a method of a by-gone era and isn’t used much anymore. Your deck I’m afraid will need to be completely stripped down to the framing and rebuilt. If you want to put tile down again, you’ll need to hire the best craftsmen available, using the best industry standard methods for framing/substrate and the waterproofing and tile assemblies.
You should expect that this will run an average of $70 to $100 per square foot for a complete rebuild, a little less if you go with a walking deck system that looks like tile. The picture above is a decorative faux tile walking deck system from Pli-Dek.
Do your job right the first time, get the right information here at DeckExpert.com.
DeckExpert.com answers your questions about deck waterproofing methods and materials for only $25.00.
“I am building a new roof deck as part of a full house remodel and I found you when researching my waterproofing options. My builder is suggesting hot mop, but I am not sure it is an appropriate option for a deck. The deck is on the plywood substrate and will not be heavily used (it is primarily there due to city’s set back requirement), but I still want to make sure that it can withstand light use. We are planning to install modular deck tiles on top of the decking surface.”Marat B San Francisco CA
Thanks for writing; you’re wise to have done some research and raise doubts about “hot mop” for waterproofing a roof deck.
Today’s modern deck waterproofing systems from our manufacturer’s provide all in one solutions to your waterproofing dilemma. The decking/roofing systems under Division 7 Pedestrian Walking Decks are all tough durable membranes that can be finished to look like wood, tile, stone etc.
Alternatively, if you want a wood deck on pedestals above a waterproof surface, walking deck systems are still your best choice. The coatings can be installed and then pedestals can be placed on top of the waterproofing and a deck system built on top. With this method you should allow for being able to remove the decking to clean the waterproof surface periodically of debris. Extra slope over the minimum code required 1/4″ per foot may help flush debris off. I would suggest draining off roof edges rather than roof deck drains (ThunderbirdProducts.com) as debris may clog drains at the worst possible time. If you opt for drains, use a minimum of a 3″ drain and 3″ ABS pipe.
If you review our site, you’ll find lots of information and advice that should be useful in your quest. Make sure to read, understand and meet all requirements for a waterproof deck system and always use Best Practices to go over and above code which is just a bare minimum. For instance, use 1 1/8″ plywood over the minimum 5/8″.
Good luck with your project, Bill Leys The Deck Expert
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